Wednesday, August 20, 2014

Dotted Swiss Bubble Skirt



Some time ago, I received a wonderful gift of the book “Shape Shape 2, Sewing for Minimalist Style” by Natsuno Hiraiwa. In search of a new project recently, I decided to break it out!


I chose the “Double Layer Skirt” for my project, but I made a few alterations along the way to get more of a bubble skirt look.

Project
Dotted Swiss Bubble Skirt
From the front


From the back- the same!


Pattern
Shape Shape 2 “Double Layer Skirt”
The original


Materials
3 yards grey cotton dotted swiss from Mood (but I had LOTS left over)
I used the back of the material as the front, as I liked the texture.

Notes
I used only one fabric, so my skirt was not reversible (well, you could reverse it if you wanted to, but the inside looks exactly the same as the outside)

The skirt pattern calls for the inside and the outside of the skirt to each have their own waistband to allow for the skirt to be worn in many different ways- I did not do this.  I simply twisted the inner layer of the skirt by 45% (a quarter twist) and basted it to the outer layer at the waist, and then I added a single waistband.

I shortened my skirt to above the knee- no one wants a poofy calf-length bubble skirt!

What did I learn?
It didn’t occur to me when I was planning that if I made a lined tube (like a very tall bagel) and left an opening in a side seam, I would not be able to turn it to the right side.  This threw a wrench into my original waistband plans of simply sewing around the top of my "tube" to make a casing for elastic.

Fortunately I did figure it out before sewing everything together, and ended up seaming the bottom of the skirt with right sides together (so the seam allowance would be on the inside), but seaming the top of the skirt with the wrong sides together. I then folded the top over and used it to form a casing, which had the added advantage of not needing to be interfaced because of the two layers.

The final verdict

I think this skirt is really cute, but my husband asked, “What is that?” when he saw it.  It is sort of fussy to wear- if you don’t arrange the bottom just so you end up with one part having a big fold and being shorter than the rest.  I still like it though!

Monday, August 11, 2014

Marimekko Shift Dress



On a trip to my local flea market earlier this year, I was lucky enough to find some pieces of vintage Marimekko fabric at a reasonable price.  Usually when I buy fabric like this, I never use it- instead I hoard it for “the perfect project, “ which never comes along.

Silly, right?

So this time I let myself buy the fabric with the caveat that I had to use at least some of it to make something.  I decided to start with my favorite of the fabrics, and to really make the fabric shine, I chose to make a simple shift dress.


Project
Marimekko Shift Dress



From the Front

From the back

It has been a great summer dress-it keeps you cool, and can be dressed up or down. I love the way the fabric design works!

Pattern
Burda Style Cap Sleeve Shift Dress #130, originally published in the January 2010 Burda Style magazine as “Boatneck Shift Dress.

Materials
2 1/8 yards vintage 1966 Marimekko “Keisarin Puutarhassa” cotton fabric, designed by Kaarina Kellomäki.  The name of the fabric translates to "The Emperor's Garden" in English.

Notes
- I added some length to the dress to make it work-appropriate.
- I understitched the neck and sleeve edges for a nice clean finish.

What did I learn?
Prior to this, I had never made a lined dress.  I did lots of research on “how to,” and found that there are many different methods.  I went with the  “line the sleeves separately first, then sew in the lining for the dress body at the neck, then slip stitch the sleeve lining and the body lining together at the armscye. It worked out just fine.

Working with Bemberg lining was quite an experience- I found it to be somewhat unruly.  Is there a trick to it?



Still some Marimekko fabrics left!

Monday, August 4, 2014

Susan Khalje Couture Sewing project- still sewing!


Here is a sneak preview of my as-yet unfinished Couture Workshop class project.

I chose to make a lace jacket (Butterick5992, View A) for my project, and although it could be quite dressy, based on my lifestyle I will probably wear it with skinny jeans and boots in the fall. I think it will be really lovely, and I can’t wait to finish it!

From the front


Pins pins pins!

Once I finish attaching the selvage trim to each side of the back opening, I will add a satin bow and a hidden closure.  I am thinking of making the bow removable to keep the jacket more versatile, plus that will allow me to add pretty buttons and rouleau loops (which I love!).